PowerPro 56101 2-Stroke Generator, 1000-watt

The PowerPro 1000 Watt generator is proof that good things do come in small packages. This two stroke generator delivers 900 watts of running and 1000 watts of starting power but weighs under 36 pounds. Small and portable, this generator is great for camping and tailgating as well as for your house's backup power. This rugged machine is both EPA and CARB compliant and is safe to use in any national park due to the spark arrestor. The power panel features an engine on/off switch, a 120V three-prong receptacle, a 12V DC receptacle, a volt meter and individual circuit reset buttons.

• Weighing less than 36 pounds, equipped with a carrying handle and stabilized with 4 rubber pads, this generator is built for portability.
• Uses oil/gas mix fuel so there's no need for oil changes; The one gallon tank can run for 5 hours at half load.
• Quiet exhaust system with spark arrestor is 60dB at 22 feet and is certified for use in any national park or forest.
• 1000-Watts starting power and 900-Watts running power.
• 1-year limited warranty; CARB and EPA compliant.

SAMPLE OF CUSTOMER REVIEW –

1) MORE FEATURES THAN ANY OF THE CHEAP BRAND 2 STROKES!!! COMPARED - My experience/observation of this generator. First I would comment that I have owned over 100 generators in the last 20 years

and have a mechanical/electronics repair background. I work generators hard!!! With that said, compared with the many CHINA MADE 2 stroke generators on the market this one has the most features I believe. It has the voltage meter and 12 volt DC output which many do not.

1. CHINA MADE and manufactured under several brand names. I Have 2 others just like this one under different brand names and at much lower prices, some at $79.00 on special sales.

2. Starting with the Pull start hub mechanism made of plastic...... as all cheapies are these days to include the plastic pull handle which is made of thin plastic both can break easily. (and has in certain cases). I sometimes replace the cheap cord and handle with a quality one for under $5 at local lawn mower parts departments.

3. The carb is EPA/California compliant.

4. This model is one of the quietest ones I have used of over 20 2 strokers. One can rig up extra and extended muffling if needed.

5. I always install a better quality spark plug although the cheap stock ones have worked well in most cases but not all. No valves to adjust so that is nice and saves on worry.

6. AC volt meter is quite accurate and of course not water resistant so I run a bead of silicone around the edges to protect from moisture.

CONCERNING THE COMPLEXITY AND ISSUE OF FUEL/OIL MIXTURE POSSIBILTIES (LENGTHY)

6. I have used many mix ratios, types, and brands of oil to include 30 weight oil with no problems. I prefer to mix my oil on the H E A V I E R side for best compression/lube and would rather clean a plug once in a while than run lean. If you mix in too much oil you will notice oil dripping out of the exhaust, more smoke in the exhaust, and a harder start/fowling.
The 2 stroke motor will smoke for a few moments when first stared until warmed up which is also common.

When you mix your oil into the gasoline your are lowering your GAS octane
rating(usually at least 2 points). You need the oil to provide most of the compression in a
2 stroke engine (It provides the seal around the piston rings as well as lubricates the
engine)

The viscosity rating of the oil you run will be the major a factor on the compression rating at any given time. The thicker the oil/mixture you run, the higher the compression to the maximum number that the engine is capable
of ....of course also taking into consideration the GAS octane value.
That is why you usually can find two values listed on compression for a two stroke, (high rpm and low rpm ) it
is harder to create that seal at high rpm's therefore the compression goes down accordingly.

If you run too much oil to GAS ratio then you decrease the OCTANE level so greatly that you
then limit the power making capability(potential energy in the fuel) of the
gasoline unless you increase the octane level to compensate, so there is a bit of a balance act needed there.

If you run a oil rich mix say 25:1 to 30:1 then I would run a slightly higher octane fuel. If you were running somewhere around say 35:1 to 40:1 then I would try to run 91 octane for example. It is always good practice to start
with the manuals reccomendations, but it NO gaurantee that it is going to be
the best setup for you and your application, you may have different air density, fuel quality******, oil
quality than they do in giving you those numbers. A little trial and error will
set you in the right direction.

CONSIDERATIONS

The OCTANE rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites under certain pressures ...so the compression value of the engine dictates what the MIN octane value of gas is needed to prevent PINGING caused from too low of this value.

One way to increase the horsepower of an engine of a given displacement is to increase its compression ratio. So a "high-performance engine" has a higher compression ratio because of chamber, piston, and stroke design, and requires higher-octane fuel. The advantage of a high compression ratio is that it gives your engine a higher horsepower rating for a given engine weight -- that is what makes the engine "high performance." The disadvantage is that the gasoline for your engine costs more.

The compression ratio of your engine determines the octane rating of the gas you must use in the engine. USING A HIGHER LEVEL OF OCTANE THAN WHAT YOUR ENGINE COMPRESSION RATINGS ARE... GIVES YOU NO MORE POWER! A WASTE OF MONEY AT THIS POINT!

THE DARK SIDE OF ETHANOL!

ETHANOL -blended fuels should not sit for more than about 2 months in your tank to avoid phase separation as
ethanol blended fuels contains a higher oxygen content and some 2 strokes are not able to compensate for the increase.

Adding stabilizer in all small engines not only preserves the fuel and prevents shellacking, but inhibits the deleterious effects of Ethanol and other additives. Most manufacturers of quality 2 stoke oil add stabilizer to the oil.

Phase Separation (Leaning Effect)
The situation with the greatest potential for damage is phase separation in the fuel tank of a 2-cycle engine without an oil sump. If the engine is able to start and run on the alcohol/water phase, it won't be lubricated -- almost all the added engine oil will be in the gasoline phase.

Compared to a conventional gasoline, oxygenated gasoline results in a leaner air-fuel mixture. This causes some engines to run rough. Also, engines may run hotter on lean mixtures, which, in the extreme, can result in engine damage. If the engine in your equipment is running rough and it has an adjustable carburetor, check that the adjustment is proper for the fuel you are using.

To minimize the chance of phase separation, keep water out of your equipment's fuel system and practice good fuel management. You can eliminate the possibility of water pickup when your equipment is not in use if you keep the fuel tank full and close the tank vent just enough to allow for expansion.

Gasoline oxygenated with ALCOHOL, readily takes up water when it is present. The water may be condensed out of humid air or be a contaminant in the fuel system. Dissolved water will not interfere with engine operation. But if enough water is present, gasoline oxygenated with alcohol will separate into two liquid phases: a top phase which is almost all gasoline (and oil, in the case of 2-cycle fuel) and a bottom phase of water and alcohol. (Phase separation is not a problem with gasoline oxygenated with MTBE.) Phase separation may make the engine difficult or impossible to start. To solve the problem, replace the separated mixture with fresh gasoline.

Some manufacturers of 2 stroke engines --Arctco, Bombardier, Outboard Marine, and Polaris--indicate that certain of their engines may require larger carburetor jets to compensate for the leaning effect of oxygenated gasoline. . Problem is the highest octanes are achieved by MOTOR octane additives, which will just gum up the pistons in a 2 cycle engine. Base stock is generally the same. The MID-GRADE gas has the detergent additives needed to clean your motor and sufficient octane for MOST motors.

Deterioration During Storage...............BIG PROBLEM!!!!

If a gasoline is of poor quality or if the storage conditions are adverse, gasoline can oxidize and form gums over the period of several months. I always drain my carb bowl when not using the/A generator like this ESPECIALLY considering fuel can leak out of the carb if the float valve becomes gummed up or faulty (WHICH IS QUITE COMMON) and possibly result in a fire.

. These changes in gumming can increase engine deposits and plugging. There are reasons to suspect that oxygenated gasoline may form gums more readily than conventional gasoline, but actual evidence is limited. A safeguard recommended by some manufacturers is the use of name-brand gasoline from companies recognized for the quality of their products. Another safeguard is good fuel management.

Practice Good Fuel Management
Match your purchases to your consumption.
Don't buy more than you'll use in one to two months.
Store gasoline in a tightly-closed container in a cool, dry place and add stabilizer.

ON THE SUBJECT OF RUNNING ELECTRONIC DEVICES AND VOLTAGE REGULATION.

There is a adjustment screw located directly above the pull start handle (adjustment screw located behind a round cutout area of the gas tank metal) area to adjust voltage/frequency speed of the generator. This screw adjustment simply adds more or less tension on the speed regulator control arm. The motor RPM when not under load will fluctuate which is common. One can experiment with the motor speed regulator which is spring loaded by changing where the end of the spring is connected to the control arm. Their are 6 holes along the arm that the spring can be adjusted/connected to for speed regulation issues if one likes to experiment.

Some generators (more expensive ones) are equipped with a AVR circuit/component (AUTOMATIC VOLTAGE REGULATION) that can regulate the voltage output of the generator to help control over/under voltage spikes, THIS generator is not one of them.

I FABRICATE A LIMITER STOP ( prevents throttle arm from moving all the way forward ) ON THE CARB THROTTLE LEVER SO THAT THE ENGINE CANNOT ***O V E R REV**** IN ORDER TO REDUCE THE POSSIBILTY OF A SUDDEN high INCREASE (SPIKE) IN ENGINE RPM THAT WOULD RESULT IN A DANGEROUSLY HI VOLTAGE SUPPLY TO ANYTHING CONNECTED TO THE GENRATOR.

I always use a external voltage/frequency/watt meter (sold at many stores or on line) to monitor output when running electronics off of this generator. I have powered my 50 inch big screen, sat receiver, or computer/23 inch monitor, DSL modem, cordless phone, a 60 watt lamp and a few chargers all at the same time for 18 hours straight on this particular generator. ( refueled on the fly) I sometimes use a APC to protect from brownout situations (LOW VOLTAGE OCCURANCES) which can be caused by engine RPM drop for any reason .

One can hook up both the 12 volt output from the generator and run a battery charger from the 120 AC volt supply to recharge a 12 battery while running off of a invertor (changes 12 volts DC to 120 volts AC ) if concerned about voltage and brownout situations.

First of all let me say that I have NEVER in the past 20 years ( keeping fingers crossed ) had a electronic device fail because of voltage fluctuation between 110 and 128 volts and a fluctuation of frequency (60HZ standard) between 57HZ and 63HZ as these small 2 strokers often present. The main issue here I believe is when a generator runs out of gas or has a failure that results in a OVER REV or brownout situation (drop of voltage below tolerable levels) . Most sensitive electronic devices have built in regulation or switching power supplies for protection. This generators ability to hold within these tolerances are expectable as long as the load capacity is not exceeded and proper fuel/oil mixtures are maintained. Running INVERTORS can be tricky as some are more sensitive than others and will cycle which can cause load issues/rpm issues with this generator.

These are brush-less type generators which require no brush maintenance or issues associated (arcing static) with brush generators.

One must understand the startup amperage draw and running amperage/wattage of ANY device that is to be powered by this generator..********
This generator has handled a continuous 850 watt load for me for many hours depending on the devices it was running. Devices like compressors, heaters, tools, etc. that go on and off intermittently can have a MAJOR effect on what the generator (any generator) can handle under various circumstances. In some cases I have ran higher loads off of this generator for short times especially tools and lights.

The DC 12* volt output is unregulated off of a simple bridge rectifier at around 9 amps and when used for charging batteries this means that it will KEEP CHARGING as long as the battery is connected (no automatic charge shutdown upon full charged battery). The un-loaded Dc voltage at the DC output socket is 19-22 volts at a engine RPM that results in a output of 120 volts/60HZ AC. Lower RPM lowers the voltage/amperage/wattage of the DC and AC output. I have noticed that the 12 volt BREAKER will trip when charging a battery that is highly discharged or in need of a deeper charge. To solve this issue
one just needs to plug a 120volt AC charger in and bypass this problem.

I have ran this generator on many occasions for 8-10 hours a day straight for 2 weeks with no problems. I have put over 300 hours on one of these generators and still going strong. I always recommend checking bearing grease if possible especially with considering these CHINA MADE units offer less than top quality bearings.

When running in really hot temps it is best to keep the generator shaded with plenty of air space to prevent overheating of plastic parts. The on/off switch soft plastic cover can become stiff in cold climates and make it difficult to turn the switch on and off. I also cover my breakers and receptacles to prevent moisture/corrosion damage also. I also add a little oil to my foam carb filter to enhance the air intake filtering in dusty/dirty air environments.

I prefer to take the plastic cover off of the voltage meter and color in a area on the face of the meter between 110 and 125 on the volt scale for easier quick reference to the operation voltage as my eyes are not what they use to be.

By Amazon Customer on February 23, 2014

2) It put a smile on my face... - I sold my little red major brand name 4 stroke generator to pocket some cash and buy this one as a back up generator. I inspected it and all seemed well as far as nuts tightened and the like. The very first time I started it, it started on about the 10th pull, and after that usually starts on the 2nd or 3rd pull. Not bad. It idles a little rough compared to the 4 stroke, but that's about normal for a 2 stroke. But when a load is put on it, it runs smooth - and sounds like my old 2 stroke outboard cruising across the lake, and this made me smile with my purchase. Also, the sound level is about the same as my old "quiet" 4 stroke generator.
What I like about this being a 2 stroke engine is that I never have to adjust valves like a 4 stroke. On my old little red 4 stroke generator, you had to practically disassemble the entire engine casing to get at the valves and the entire valve adjustment job took a couple hours - this is just impractical. Also, the DC charging cables are included free, whereas with the 4 stroke you have to pay extra for them. And I'll never have to lift the unit up and turn it on it's side to do an oil change like the 4 stroke - no oil changes ever.
The main thing to keep in mind when considering purchasing this unit is how much it will power. It will power continuously 900 watts or less. It will power 900 to 1000 watts for a short time, maybe 15 minutes before the breaker will trip, and you have to let it cool and reset it. So if you size it right, there is no problem.
And one other thing: it says to use a 32:1 oil to gas mix. This is old school when 2 strokes ran off 30 weight motor oil, and for the reviews of people who have trouble starting it, perhaps you're using too much oil like 32:1. Instead, I chose Amsoil synthetic Saber Professional 100:1 mix and it runs great - and by doing this it's now covered by the Amsoil warranty so I'm not worried about not following the owner's manual recommendations. I run all my 2 stroke engines on 100:1 Amsoil and have never had a problem with lubrication.
The owners manual also says that a TCW 2 stroke oil may be used. TCW stands for 2 cycle water cooled. Obviously this is an air cooled engine which runs at a hotter temperature than a water cooled engine like an outboard motor, so if you use a TCW oil, sure, it will run, but it will start and run better with less carbon build up in the exhaust with a 2 stroke oil designed for air cooled engines such as Amsoil Saber which meets JASO FC or JASO FD, ISO-L-EGD or API TC.
I also found out that the AC output on this unit is fine for tools, lights, and such, but the voltage fluctuates too much for sensitive electronics, so it would not function with my Outback inverter to charge the batteries in my offgrid solar system. So I plan to keep this for tools but get another 2 stroke generator with an inverter for the solar system.

By Charlie A on October 9, 2013

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